“The waves that the ocean threw up at you could be wild and cold and dangerous, but if you surfed over and over again, and went with the waves instead of resisting them, and trusted that you would be O.K., you could leave your self-conscious mind behind and feel a joyful sense of oneness with the world.” An excerpt from the book ‘Surfing Uncertainty’ by Andy Clark. Photos: Kookson@aol.com
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